Kuşadası
We were driving through meandering streets, just narrow enough to fit our white Passat, up the hill to our sunset viewpoint. I looked around and saw broken down and unkempt buildings. There were children with dirty clothes running about. This definitely wasn’t the Turkey I was used to seeing. After getting a bit lost, we stopped next to a guy in a dirty tank-top just hanging around. “Do you know how to get to Atatürk Heykeli?”, my friend Muhammed asked in Turkish. After some exchanges, he rolled down the window and began driving to the spot. “By the way, do you know what the man said?”, Muhammed asked me amusedly. “He said that we’re not supposed to be here. It’s a dangerous place. These people are gypsies.” When we arrived at the sunset spot, we stood by a wall and watched as the bright orange sun was slowly being swallowed up by the blue sea. It was truly a remarkable sight. Then, as I was looking in the distance, I felt a tug on my shirt. It was a little kid. He asked in some broken English if I wanted to play with him and his friends. But before I could answer, Muhammed came in and shooed them away. I looked up at the beautiful sunrise, and then back at the kids who looked as if they work at a mine. I shook my head in sadness. “What a world we live in”, I thought. “So beautiful, yet so ugly”.
This little story took place in Kuşadası, a resort town located in southwest Turkey on the Aegean coast. Out of all the cities we visited along the Turkish Riviera, Kuşadası was unfortunately my least favourite. Besides the world, it just so happens that “so beautiful, yet so ugly” is exactly how I would describe this place. It’s located in a very beautiful part of Turkey. The Aegean never fails to impress. Yet to be brutally honest, that was the only thing I found truly appealing about it. The beaches are ok, the town itself is decent, and the overall vibe is…eh. Nevertheless, there are some things that Kuşadası has going for it. But first, some history.
In antiquity, what is now Kuşadası was then Neopolis (Νεόπολις), a minor port town originally founded by maritime traders. Neopolis was overshadowed by Ephesus, a major Greek city with a huge influence in the region. The town was ruled by various kingdoms and empires, such as the Lydians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, and the Byzantines. When Ephesus’ harbour was eventually silted up by the Kaystros River in the 7th century AD, Neopolis began to become a much more important city. When Genoese and Venetian traders began to use the coast, they re-founded Neopolis as Scala Nuova, meaning “New Port”. A garrison was then placed in Scala Nuova, which became the centre of a growing town. When the Ottoman Turks arrived in the 15th century, they called the place “Kuş Adası” or “Bird Island”. This referred to the fact that the nearby island of what is today Güvercinada looks like the head of a bird when seen from the sea. In 1923, Kuşadası would become part of the Turkish Republic.
Over the years, Kuşadası has become a popular resort town. But while the city itself has some things to offer, the one big thing Kuşadası has going for it is that it’s close to some of Turkey’s most famous ancient sites. Ephesus, a once extremely important and prosperous ancient Greek city is just a 25-minute drive away. The supposed House of the Virgin Mary, the Basilica of Saint John, and the Temple of Artemis are all 30 minutes away. Further south, the ancient Greek city of Priene is 40 minutes away. Kuşadası seems to be the perfect place to use as a base to travel to these amazing historical locations. PS - I will be dedicating a post to Ephesus in the Turkey and More page.
But okay, is there anything worth doing in Kuşadası itself? Güvercinada is a pretty cool place to visit as it’s an island with a castle on it. A great place to take sunset pictures. Another great place to watch the sunset is Atatürk Heykeli, which is where the story at the beginning of this post takes place. Kuşadası for all its mediocrity has a pretty fun nightlife. There are streets lined with brightly-lit shops and a variety of restaurants and clubs. I myself had a little encounter with, get a load of this, a Russian belly-dancer. Truly an only in Turkey moment. By the way, you can find good hotels to stay in - Kuşadası isn’t remarkable but it’s not uninhabitable. Also, do not be deceived by the rows of colourful houses on the side of the hill near Atatürk Heykeli. That area looks like it’s begging to be explored, but that’s the most dangerous part of the city. Definitely do not go alone if at all.
Kuşadası doesn’t offer much. There isn’t really one thing this place has that makes me go “wow”. But hey, sometimes there’s beauty in mediocrity, and in Kuşadası’s case, it’s the city’s great proximity to some of Turkey’s most popular historical locations. In that regard, you’ve got a great base from which to visit these places. However, if your plan doesn’t include exploring any ancient sites, then it’s best you give Kuşadası a pass.
Things to do -
Visit Güvercinada
Watch the sunset at Atatürk Heykeli
Visit the nearby ancient sites (Ephesus, House of the Virgin Mary, Basilica of Saint John, Temple of Artemis, and Priene)
Enjoy the nightlife
